from one trip to another

How much damage do you think I could inflict on a Toyota RAV-4 during 6 days and 1,200 miles of chasing trains around California?

Before / after photos of my rental from Hertz

Actually, it wasn't quite that bad, but the vehicle I rented in San Jose (with 721 miles on the odometer) was definitely quite a bit more "broken in" when I handed it off in Ontario. It held up pretty well, though, and didn't give me any problems. I enjoyed driving it, and I didn't even miss my truck as much as I thought I would.

It was cool to spend a week driving a car with a GPS system. Even though I was well equipped with DeLorme atlases, the GPS saved me from getting lost a few times, and proved especially useful when I was trying to locate an In-N-Out Burger. All I had to do was punch in the address, and the GPS guided me there, hassle-free, every time.

the flight home

I had a window seat on the left side of the plane for the flight home from Ontario. It was cloudy over most of southern California and part of Arizona. By the time I recognized where we were, we were just south of Belen, NM, on about the same flight path we took when we flew home from Phoenix in March. By watching the railroads, highways, and other landmarks like rivers and lakes, I monitored our progress from Belen all the way back to D-FW. We had clear skies the entire way... a great flight.


looking down on Friona, Texas (in the Texas panhandle southwest of Amarillo)

Over Lake Grapevine. The plane below us had just taken off from D-FW as we assumed our landing pattern. I don't know if this would constitute a "close call", but it seemed a little close to me...

We got a great view of the new Dallas Cowboys stadium when we turned over Arlington.

During my week in California, I had spoken with my friend Stephen several times about his plans to spend the weekend with some other railfans on Rich Mountain (Arkansas-Oklahoma state line near Heavener, OK). So what did I do upon landing at D-FW? I collected my suitcase at baggage claim, picked up my truck, and without even stopping by the house first, I headed immediately for the Ouachita Mountains near Heavener. (K and the kids had gone to Kansas City to see K's grandparents, so no one was waiting for me at home). I hadn't been to Rich Mountain since 1997 and had been wanting to get back there, especially since the new KCS locomotives began showing up. And now I was on my way...

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nr: John Steinbeck - East of Eden

np: Beastie Boys - "Hey Ladies"

the In-N-Out Experience

Would you believe I ate at In-N-Out Burger five times during my recent California trip? Monday - for lunch in Modesto. Tuesday - lunch in Salinas. Wednesday and Thursday - dinner in Bakersfield (once in each of the town's two locations). Friday - dinner in Ontario. In-N-Out has locations in just three states that I don't frequently visit (California, Arizona, and Nevada), so I figured I'd better get my fill while I had the chance.




In-N-Out is well known for the high quality of its food.... burgers made from never-frozen ground beef, fries made from fresh-sliced potatoes, shakes made from real ice cream. The menu is simple, but what they do, they do well. The crowd inside any of their restaurants and the line of cars at each drive through should be testimony to that.

Where the magic happens.

A simple menu. No chicken, no salads, no kids meals... just great burgers.

The legendary double-double.

Watch for hidden messages under the cups... (be careful not to spill your drink)

Most of the In-N-Outs seem to have similar floor plans and dining rooms, but this location in Ontario with a double drive-thru (and no dining room) was an interesting exception. It was Friday night and that place was "hoppin'"...

In-N-Out does have its share of critics, but I think it's safe to say that the quality of their food is light years ahead of anything the "big boys" (McDonalds, BK) are serving up.

Now, the money question for my Texas bretheren: Is In-N-Out better than Whataburger? Hard to say. Most Californians would probably say so; In-N-Out enjoys quite a cult following on the left coast. But Texans (and other burger proponents) might disagree. Obviously, this calls for a side-by-side comparison -- which unfortunately is no easy task since I know of just one market where the two coexist -- Phoenix. The next time I visit the Valley of the Sun, I'll attempt to do just that. Until then, the jury is still out.

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nr: John Steinbeck - East of Eden

np: KTCK Sports radio - analysis of the Cowboys' 31-20 win over the Giants; ESPN SportsCenter

Cajon smokeout!

Friday, October 26 - The wildfires hadn't really affected me until today. I left Tehachapi before sunrise and drove east and south through Mojave and Palmdale toward Cajon Pass. The sun rose as I drove through Palmdale, and about every 15 miles the sky seemed to take on another layer of smoke and haze.

My first train on Cajon -- an eastbound on Main 1 east of Sullivan's Curve.

This would be my second visit to Cajon Pass -- and my first since 1989. I was still in high school the last time I was there! I had been to the areas around Silverwood and Summit during my '89 visit, so I wanted to check out some new locations this time around, especially Sullivan's Curve. Construction of the new BNSF main was under way, but most of the crews seemed to be taking the day off -- with the exception of a ballast train unloading near Silverwood.

A BNSF westbound on Main 1 passes a UP train stopped at Canyon.

Fortunately, a strong breeze blew off some of the smoke early in the day. From mid-morning to mid-afternoon, the air quality didn't bother me too much. It got bad again in the late afternoon, though, and I was pretty well done shooting before 5 pm.

Southbound UP freight approaching Canyon. I had seen this same train at Bealville (north of Tehachapi) on Thursday.

side-by-side: An eastbound Z-train on BNSF Main 1 passes a work train unloading ballast on the new main. To the left, BNSF Main 2 (soon to be re-designated Main 3?) plunges down the pass on a steeper grade. The Silverwood connection (connection with UP's former SP Palmdale cutoff) can be seen to the right.

Four deuces! A quartet of SD40-2s powers a ballast train working on the new BNSF main at Silverwood.

With Interstate 15 little more than a stone's throw from the tracks, it was hard to enjoy much peace and quiet between trains. Then again, it was kind of nice to find a few gas stations and other amenities (even a motel! I guess I'll know where to stay next time...) conveniently located near the tracks at Cajon Jct.

eastbound stack train at Sullivan's Curve on Main 1

It was cool to come back to Cajon for my first visit since 1989. Even with all the smoke, and I-15 traffic whizzing by all day long, Cajon is still an impressive stage for big-time railroading. And the train traffic just keeps getting busier. I'd like to go back in a few years to see the new main in service.

I stuck around Summit until dusk, and then headed for San Bernardino. I had booked a room in Ontario for the night, and I'd be flying back to Texas from the Ontario Airport the next morning. My trip was almost over. Coming next: a California wrap-up, including a look at my vacation dining experiences, my rental car, and the flight home. Stay tuned...

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nr: John Steinbeck - East of Eden

np: Doug Sahm - "Beautiful Texas Sunshine"

Two days on Tehachapi

Outside the Tehachapi depot (currently undergoing restoration). Tehachapi, CA.

My first look at Tehachapi Loop on Wednesday, October 24. A northbound train, heading downgrade, is about to cross under its own tail.

One of North America's most famous and popular railroading landmarks, Tehachapi Loop, is located in the Tehachapi Mountains southeast of Bakersfield. In the 1870s, in order to construct a rail line with a manageable grade through the mountains, the Southern Pacific Railroad was forced to build a "loop" of track (in which the track crosses over itself) in order to gain elevation in a confined space. The 4,000-foot loop allowed the railroad to gain 77 feet of elevation with an ascending grade of less than two percent. Busy railroad traffic, mountain scenery, and the spectacle of seeing trains wrap around the loop (and often cross over or under themselves) has made Tehachapi Loop a popular train-watching location for generations.

BNSF 7695 leads a southbound around the loop at Walong.

Of course, the entire region is worth checking out -- not just the loop. From Sandcut to Tehachapi, the rail line is nothing short of an engineering marvel, featuring numerous tunnels and horseshoe curves and two percent grades. I had planned two days -- October 24 and 25 -- for my first visit to Tehachapi. I had a great time; it was everything I'd been led to expect it would be. The weather was great and the trains were plentiful. Here's a look at what I saw...

Another northbound rounds the loop - October 25.

I wasn't the only fan there... this couple from Arizona came well-prepared with lawn chairs and coolers.

A southbound exits the tunnel between Walong and Marcel.

Northbound under the signal bridge at Sandcut.

A southbound UP train at Bealville. Engines in the foreground are shoving against the rear of the train. Note the head-end power on the hillside in the background.

Moonrise at Sandcut.

Next up: a smoky day on Cajon Pass. Check back soon...

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nr: John Steinbeck - East of Eden

np: Eleven Hundred Springs - "Why you been gone so long"

Goin' coastal

Pacific Coast Highway

I had especially been looking forward to the afternoon of Tuesday, October 23. Once I had finished sightseeing in Monterey and Salinas, I'd be driving south for close to a hundred miles along the Pacific Coast before I turned inland toward Bakersfield and Tehachapi.

The spectacular scenery started almost immediately. Just south of Carmel Highlands, Route 1 emerges from the trees and clings to the cliffs above the coastline for mile and miles -- arguably one of the most breathtaking drives anywhere in North America. There's a reason the auto makers like to film their car commercials here...

Route 1 south of Carmel Highlands, CA

coastal scenery between Carmel Highlands and Big Sur

the Bixby Bridge

late in the day

Unfortunately, beach access along this part of Highway 1 is very limited. Most of the land along this portion of the coast is privately owned. Even if it weren't, in most areas there's simply no way to safely negotiate the steep cliffs in order to reach the shoreline. But the scenery looked all the more dramatic from a few hundred feet above.

I ran out of daylight long before I ran out of road and great views. I just couldn't seem to stop pulling over and snapping photos! I was just south of Big Sur around sunset, so I had to drive the rest of the way to Cambria (and on to Bakersfield and Tehachapi) in the dark. But it was worth it.

Leftovers from Monterey and Salinas

A last look at the Monterey area...

A seal catches some sun in Monterey Bay.

early morning on Monterey Bay

The Salinas Valley

Coming next: two days on Tehachapi. Stay tuned...

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nr: John Steinbeck - East of Eden

np: Reckless Kelly - "Desolation Angels"

Steinbeck pilgrimage Part II

National Steinbeck Center

Rare is the occasion when, after spending 30 minutes or so reading part of a John Steinbeck novel, I don't set the book down and say to myself, "Wow!" or "Brilliant!" as I reflect on some wonderfully written passage. Whether it's the alternating "big picture - small picture" views presented in Grapes of Wrath, the utter viciousness of the young Cathy Ames in East of Eden or Steinbeck's delightful descriptions of both sea life and humanity in Cannery Row, his works certainly rank among the top tier of 20th century American literature.

When I began planning my vacation, I initially conceived a trip that would allow me to photograph the shortline railroads around Modesto and Stockton, and then embark on my Steinbeck pilgrimage by checking out Cannery Row in Monterey and the National Steinbeck Center in Steinbeck's home town of Salinas. I later added Tehachapi and Cajon, both worthwhile destinations on their own, to the itinerary almost as afterthoughts; it was the Steinbeck stuff that really motivated me to begin planning the trip.

outside the National Steinbeck Center in Salinas

If you've read a few of Steinbeck's books and you're a fan of his writing, I'd highly recommend a visit to the Steinbeck Center. As I recall, admission cost me about $10. I was first directed to a small theater which showed two short films -- one about Steinbeck's life and writing, and another one describing California's Central Valley and its impact on Steinbeck's work.

A walk through the main exhibit hall is kind of like a virtual tour of Steinbeck's library. Some basic biographical information is included, but most of the exhibits focus on his books. The center has allocated small sections of the hall for each of his books, and the displays are both imaginative and interactive. Grapes of Wrath exhibits included pages from migrant worker diaries and a full-size mockup of a farm workers' bunk house. The East of Eden section included a Model-T Ford with instructions on how to start it, and a full-size representation of a railcar loaded with lettuce. The Cannery Row displays included jars of sea animal specimens that might have been found in Doc's lab. For Steinbeck's books that had been made into movies, film clips played on continuous loops. It was an interesting experience, getting the chance to enjoy Steinbeck's stories from a completely new perspective.

representation of a migrant worker bunkhouse

the Model T

"Spark Up, Gas Down"

The Pearl - en Espanol

Ed Ricketts' pillow, with a memorable quote

The Steinbeck Center also had two smaller exhibit halls... one featured a collection of photographs of immigrant children; the other presented hands-on exhibits of past and present agricultural and farming techniques.

The house where Steinbeck was born and raised is located just down the street from the Steinbeck Center. On my way out of town, I stopped and snapped a few photos.

The Steinbeck House at 132 Central Avenue

Capitalizing on name recognition...

Coming next: a drive down Highway 1 along the coast...

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nr: John Steinbeck - East of Eden

np: King of the Hill rerun

Stockton shortlines, cutting it close

Stockton shortlines

By mid-afternoon on Monday the 22nd, I felt like I had covered the M&ET fairly well. So I headed up to Stockton to see if I could track down the Stockton Terminal & Eastern. I found one of their switch jobs shoving cars around with MP15DC # 777.

Stockton Terminal & Eastern 777 at Stockton, CA

You'd think this would be common sense, but I guess not...

Later, I worked my way up to Lodi and happened upon a Central California Traction job heading south. I spent the last 30 minutes of daylight chasing them back to Stockton.

Central California Traction shop building in Stockton

Central California Traction GP18 1790 heads south between Lodi and Stockton.

My day wasn't over yet... I had a motel reservation for the night down in Monterey, so now I had about 2 hours of driving ahead of me. Tuesday's plans... sightseeing in Monterey, visiting the National Steinbeck Center in Salinas, and driving south along the coast on Highway 1. Stay tuned for the reports...

How I almost missed my flight to California

So, I scheduled my California flights way back in August or September. After checking the Cowboys' football schedule, I saw that they were lined up to play a noon game on Sunday the 21st against the Vikings. So I picked a flight with a 6:40 pm departure, which I figured would allow me to watch the game at home and still have plenty of time to get to the airport without missing anything. On the Friday before my trip, I learned that the game's start time had been pushed back to 3:15. Dammit! The whole reason I was taking an evening flight was so I could watch the game. Now I wouldn't even be able to see the end of the game at the airport before I had to board my plane!

Well, Sunday finally rolled around, and I'll admit that I found the noon to 3:15 time frame quite useful to pack for the trip. And I managed to watch the first half of the game (it was kind of ugly and not really worth watching anyway) at home before I left for the airport. I listened to most of the 3rd quarter on the radio, and once I got checked in, I found an airport bar that had the game on and I settled in to watch part of the 4th. I was about halfway through my second beer when I began nervously checking the clock on my cell phone. 6:05... 6:10... 6:15... where had my waitress gone? Oh, there she is... taking a large order of food to another table. Now she's talking with the customers... now she's taking someone else's order... She passed back and forth several times without looking my way. I finally flagged her down, got my check, threw down a few bills down on the table, and headed off to my gate, now with insufficient time to purchase a bottle of water at the newsstand or even take a leak before boarding. (Incidentally, the game was down to about the 2 minute warning, so I did get to watch most of the 4th... and it only cost me eleven bucks for those two beers....)

I checked the departure boards. "Flight 1535 to San Jose -- FINAL BOARDING" Didn't they know I was trying to watch the game? So I high-tailed it to the gate (D-20) that showed on the board. People were coming UP the jet-way, exiting a plane that had just arrived. What the hell? My flight hadn't already left, had it? I asked the gate agent. "Oh, that's been moved to gate D-15". I had visions of the plane backing away from the gate as I hurried up to the counter. Pretty much moving at a full sprint by now, I made it there in time... barely. It wasn't too hard to find my seat -- it was the only empty one! Almost everybody else was already settled in for the flight. Wheeeewwww. There's nothing like the "rush" of cutting something a little too close.

Oh, and how 'bout them Cowboys?

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np: R.E.M. "There she goes again" / Monday Night Football - Steelers vs. Ravens

nr: John Steinbeck - East of Eden

more from Modesto

more from October 22 in Modesto...


The former Southern Pacific depot in Modesto now serves as a transit hub for the city's bus system.

Fine dining in Modesto - wonder if they've heard from Pizza Hut's lawyers yet?

the famous arch over "I" Street.

Mailbox for "The Bee" (Modesto's newspaper)

Stanislaus is one of the major sources of traffic on the Modesto & Empire Traction in the Beard Industrial District.

Coming next... Stockton area shortlines.

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nr: John Steinbeck - East of Eden

np: ESPN College GameDay from Eugene, OR